NEW - ADVANCE DESIGN Racing MacPherson Strut Double adjustable, designed to be rebuildable and revalvable, monotube design shocks.

To help you understand the new ADVANCE DESIGN racing MacPherson strut, we are publishing the adjustment and revalving manual online. A basic understanding of damping is very helpful, especially when revalving, and the very best explanations I have seen are in a book titled "Advance Racing Technology" by Paul Haney and Jeff Braun. The first section of the manual tells how to use the separate rebound and compression adjustment features of the struts and shocks, the second section shows how to actually revalve the strut by changing disc valves (shims) and or pistons.

COMPRESSION ADJUSTMENT: The Advance Design compression adjuster is designed to primarily affect low speed compression (bump) damping. There are three distinct positions for three different compression force/velocity curves, and these positions primarily change the slope of the compression curve in the critical 0 to 3 inch per second range (low speed damping). Compression for the less important 3 to 12 inch per second range is also affected, but intentionally not as much so. The three compression curves are selected by rotating the uppermost knob, which is anodized blue (blue is for bump).

Use the included adjustment tool to turn the knob clockwise. The three settings are positioned 90 degrees apart, and are marked "1", "2" or "3" on the side of knob, and when clicked into position above the single blue notch on the adjacent shock shaft, the numbers indicate the current compression setting, "3" being the stiffest. The compression knob should be rotated clockwise when performing compression adjustments, but the stiffness will always be what is shown when the number is clicked into place at the yellow indicator notch. Continuing to turn the knob clockwise after position "3" will get you back to "1" and you start over.

REBOUND ADJUSTMENT:
The Advance Design rebound adjustment is a bit different from the compression adjustment. Because the rebound damping characteristics of any shock are primarily to control the stored energy of the spring, the rebound adjustment affects both high and low speed damping. The Advance Design rebound adjustment knob is anodized red (red is for rebound) as is directly under the blue compression knob. Like the compression knob, the red rebound knob is rotated clockwise for increased damping (stiffer), however the rebound knob has no detents, and has a range of three full turns. Turning the knob clockwise until it stops will be full stiff rebound, and unscrewing counterclockwise three full turns from there will be full soft rebound. There are six holes per rotation, and the number of holes away from full stiffness references rebound adjustments. For example one complete turn of the knob away from full stiff would be "-6 holes" or, "-6", full soft rebound setting would be "-18".

DISASSEMBLY and REVALVING Set the compression and rebound adjustments on full soft. Using the body clamp that is included in the revalve kit, clamp the very bottom of the strut. Never clamp the strut at any other place or any other way!
The clamp should be flush with the end cap of the strut, which will not be removed during revalving. Now clamp the body clamp in the vise, leaving access to the Schraeder valve on the bottom.
Remove the valve cap and let the gas charge out by depressing the center of the valve. Never replace this valve or valve cap with a regular tire valve core, new cores are included in the revalve kit, but it is not necessary to change them unless they leak.
Unscrew the gland nut, but don't let the shaft rotate with the gland nut while removing. Hold the shaft still with one hand while unscrewing with the other.
After the gland nut is loose, remove the strut from the vise and pour the oil into a beaker or measuring cup. Gently remove the shaft, gland nut and piston assembly upward and pour the rest of the oil into the beaker.
Carefully set the strut housing aside, and install two jamnuts on the upper threaded portion of the shaft (just below the adjustment knobs). Now clamp the shaft upside down in the vise by clamping onto the jam nuts.
IMPORTANT. You must hold onto the piston stud with a 22 mm wrench while loosening the piston nut with a 19mm wrench. You may now remove the piston and valve assembly.
If the piston configuration is to be changed, carefully separate the piston halves and install a new roll pin if needed.
Double check the torque on the 22mm piston stud, 60 ft/lbs, even though you didn't loosen it. After reassembling the pistons and valve shims, install onto the piston stud.
Note that all the compression (bump) pistons are color-coded blue or black (for bump), and are installed onto the piston stud first, closest to the adjustment knobs. Torque the 19mm nut to 24 ft/lbs. Remove shaft assembly from vise, gently set aside and tighten the body clamp with strut housing in the vise.
Despite your best efforts, you may have spilled a little oil during disassembly. We use and strongly recommend our custom- blended Red Line^® synthetic shock oil. Don't mix with standard Red Line^® shock oil. Replace oil in beaker, or top up to 210cc ( which is almost exactly 7/8 cup).
Confirm that the floating piston is 8.5 inches down from the top edge of the strut body.
Pour about half of the oil into the strut housing, then slowly insert the piston shaft assembly until the top of the urethane rebound stop is even with the bottom of the threads inside. Gently tap down on the blue rebound knob a few times with a rubber mallet and rag to dislodge bubbles. Slowly add the rest of the oil. The oil level should be at the bottom of the threads (even with the top of the bump stop). If not, slowly push in the shaft assembly, and this will cause the fluid level to rise. You must use 210cc of oil minimum! ( 220cc maximum, but 210cc is better). Now slowly tighten the gland nut until the O-ring is just above the top of the strut body. Now push in the shaft until oil with no bubbles is coming out from under the O-ring. About 10cc (1 TBSB) will leak out, leaving you with 200cc in the strut. This bleeding procedure is easy but important, so repeat if necessary. Tighten the gland nut the rest of the way by hand, snug up with wrench (15 ft/lbs).
Charge with nitrogen to 180 lbs, and replace valve cap. Reset compression and rebound adjustments.

ADVANCE DESIGN Racing Strut Features